If your puppy is snacking on poop, you’re not alone. It’s common (and yes, it’s really freaking gross), but it’s also fixable. No shame, no scare tactics – just a kind, practical plan that works.
Why it happens isn’t a moral failing, it’s just habit and dogs are disgusting. Puppies explore with their mouths; if poop isn’t picked up quickly, the habit gets rehearsed. Punishing toilet time can also push puppies to sneak or eat faster. We’ll use reward-based training (i.e. positive reinforcement) plus smart management – no aversives, no scolding.
What you can expect: within 2–4 weeks, no poop eating in “managed areas” (home and yard or any area you control), and clear, real‑world strategies for “wild poop zones” (walks, parks, trails).
often times, easy access to poop is the single biggest contributor towards poop eating
In managed areas, supervise, pick up instantly, and run a simple sit–reward routine while you bag the poop. Keep litter boxes and potty patches inaccessible unless you’re actively training, and use barriers like baby gates with cat doors. Out in the wild, watch your puppy’s sniffing and cheerfully “Come on!” away before they commit; use a long line in hotspots, choose cleaner routes, and consider a basket muzzle for chronic scavengers while training takes hold.
Skip the myths. “Deterrents” in the form of dietary additions and supplements (like pineapple) rarely work, and don’t change diet unless it’s vet prescribed. We’ll also cover when to call your vet (e.g., weight loss, diarrhea, visible parasites, lethargy, vomiting, behavior change, or if your puppy is on vet‑prescribed meds) and simple hygiene steps—like thorough handwashing and cleaning gear with a biological detergent followed by white vinegar.
Most poop‑eating in puppies is a behavior you can change with management and reward-based training. However, some signs suggest a medical problem needs ruling out. Call your vet promptly if you notice any of the following: weight loss, diarrhea or mucus/bloody stools, visible parasites in the stool, vomiting, lethargy or notable behavior change, or if your puppy is currently on vet‑prescribed medication and you’re seeing new GI signs or increased scavenging. These red flags can indicate infections (like giardia or worms), inflammation, medication side‑effects, or other issues that deserve a proper check.
I asked over 100 dog parents if they’ve experienced poop eating, and these were the results, so it seems poop eating is still pretty common with roughly 2 in 5 dog guardians experiencing this gross habit.
Vet visits often mean a little wait (especially when something like this isn’t an emergency). So until then, do these 4 things and then you’ll be best prepared for your vet.
As a general note, understanding your dog’s poop is insanely important as part of understanding your dogs health and welfare.
This is one of the grossest parts of having a poop eater… usually puppy kisses are awesome, but … yuck.
Poop eating (scientifically termed as coprophagia) isn’t a character flaw, it’s also not something you just have to endure. It sticks around because of biology, opportunity, and learning.
Puppies experience the world with their mouths. Fresh stools are smelly and novel—exactly what curious pups investigate. Our job is to prevent it becoming a habit.
Every successful “snack” is self‑reinforcing. Immediate pickup is non‑negotiable to remove the reinforcement history.
Scolding or anxious hovering can lead to hidden eliminations or gulping. Keep toilet time low‑pressure and pay for what you want.
Whilst these 3 things are the main reasons, there are sometimes other reasons, though they’re less frequent, and I’d strongly suggest from a training standpoint, you assume one of the above (unless it’s really obviously one of the below!)
4 – Attention loops: chasing/scolding creates keep‑away games, which make poop eating even more rewarding
5 – Under‑stimulation: bored pups scavenge more; enrichment helps this! Find other outlets for hunting and finding food.
6 – Copying other dogs: management still works for this! teach the first dog, then the second will likely stop (Or maybe don’t pal with them at the dog park anymore)
7 – Seasonal/context effects: winter “poopsicles,” wildlife areas, busy parks increase temptation.
To make fast, reliable progress, separate life into two contexts with different goals.
What it means: spaces you control—home, garden/yard, balcony, potty patch
Goal: zero opportunities to practice; within 2–4 weeks, no poop‑eating here
How: tight supervision, instant pickup, Sit–Pick‑Up–Reward routine, smart barriers (baby gates with cat doors, secured litter boxes, accessible potty patches only during training). This means that in managed areas, you erase the habit’s reinforcement and install a paid routine.
What it means: places you don’t control—sidewalks, parks, trails, beaches, fields
Goal: early detection and cheerful move‑aways; humane backup tools as needed
How: watch sniffing intensity, use an upbeat “Come on!” and move away, choose cleaner routes, long line in hotspots, and consider a well‑fitted basket muzzle for chronic scavengers while training takes hold
In wild zones, you control distance and timing so moving with you beats investigating.
The goal is simple: no chances to practice the behavior.
That means preventing access, replacing “find-and-eat” with calm, rewarded routines, and keeping cleanup quick and consistent.
Gear that makes life easier: treat pouch, long line, scoop, sealed bin, baby gates, and a secure litter box setup.
What not to do:
letting your pup go wander off is not wise whilst you’re trying to conquer coprophagia
Your new motto: replace “sniff, grab, eat” with “sit, wait, reward.”
This becomes your default potty cleanup pattern – calm, predictable, and positive.
Why it happens isn’t a moral failing, it’s just habit and dogs are disgusting. Puppies explore with their mouths; if poop isn’t picked up quickly, the habit gets rehearsed. Punishing toilet time can also push puppies to sneak or eat faster. We’ll use reward-based training (i.e. positive reinforcement) plus smart management – no aversives, no scolding.
What you can expect: within 2–4 weeks, no poop eating in “managed areas” (home and yard or any area you control), and clear, real‑world strategies for “wild poop zones” (walks, parks, trails).
often times, easy access to poop is the single biggest contributor towards poop eating
Quick wins you’ll start today
In managed areas, supervise, pick up instantly, and run a simple sit–reward routine while you bag the poop. Keep litter boxes and potty patches inaccessible unless you’re actively training, and use barriers like baby gates with cat doors. Out in the wild, watch your puppy’s sniffing and cheerfully “Come on!” away before they commit; use a long line in hotspots, choose cleaner routes, and consider a basket muzzle for chronic scavengers while training takes hold.
Skip the myths. “Deterrents” in the form of dietary additions and supplements (like pineapple) rarely work, and don’t change diet unless it’s vet prescribed. We’ll also cover when to call your vet (e.g., weight loss, diarrhea, visible parasites, lethargy, vomiting, behavior change, or if your puppy is on vet‑prescribed meds) and simple hygiene steps—like thorough handwashing and cleaning gear with a biological detergent followed by white vinegar.
When To Call Your Vet (Safety First!)
Most poop‑eating in puppies is a behavior you can change with management and reward-based training. However, some signs suggest a medical problem needs ruling out. Call your vet promptly if you notice any of the following: weight loss, diarrhea or mucus/bloody stools, visible parasites in the stool, vomiting, lethargy or notable behavior change, or if your puppy is currently on vet‑prescribed medication and you’re seeing new GI signs or increased scavenging. These red flags can indicate infections (like giardia or worms), inflammation, medication side‑effects, or other issues that deserve a proper check.
I asked over 100 dog parents if they’ve experienced poop eating, and these were the results, so it seems poop eating is still pretty common with roughly 2 in 5 dog guardians experiencing this gross habit.
What to ask at the appointment
- Whether a fecal test (including giardia) is appropriate and whether deworming is recommended
- Any medical concerns behind sudden GI signs or behavior shifts
- Whether any nutrition changes are warranted; otherwise keep diet steady (Though, I’m really skeptical this has any actual foundation)
While you wait for the visit:
Vet visits often mean a little wait (especially when something like this isn’t an emergency). So until then, do these 4 things and then you’ll be best prepared for your vet.
- Tighten management: supervise, pick up immediately, use a long line in hotspots
- Pause deterrents/supplements; they rarely help
- Hygiene: wash hands after cleanup, and clean gear/muzzles with a biological detergent, then sanitise white vinegar
- Keep a log log: Keep a brief log of stool quality and any incidents
As a general note, understanding your dog’s poop is insanely important as part of understanding your dogs health and welfare.
This is one of the grossest parts of having a poop eater… usually puppy kisses are awesome, but … yuck.
The 3 Main Reasons Why Puppies Eat Poop
Poop eating (scientifically termed as coprophagia) isn’t a character flaw, it’s also not something you just have to endure. It sticks around because of biology, opportunity, and learning.
1 – It’s Normal exploratory behavior
Puppies experience the world with their mouths. Fresh stools are smelly and novel—exactly what curious pups investigate. Our job is to prevent it becoming a habit.
2 – Slow pickup = practice (and practice makes habit)
Every successful “snack” is self‑reinforcing. Immediate pickup is non‑negotiable to remove the reinforcement history.
3 – Punishment around toilet time creates sneaking and “eat fast before I’m caught”
Scolding or anxious hovering can lead to hidden eliminations or gulping. Keep toilet time low‑pressure and pay for what you want.
Other contributors
Whilst these 3 things are the main reasons, there are sometimes other reasons, though they’re less frequent, and I’d strongly suggest from a training standpoint, you assume one of the above (unless it’s really obviously one of the below!)
4 – Attention loops: chasing/scolding creates keep‑away games, which make poop eating even more rewarding
5 – Under‑stimulation: bored pups scavenge more; enrichment helps this! Find other outlets for hunting and finding food.
6 – Copying other dogs: management still works for this! teach the first dog, then the second will likely stop (Or maybe don’t pal with them at the dog park anymore)
7 – Seasonal/context effects: winter “poopsicles,” wildlife areas, busy parks increase temptation.
Managed areas vs wild poop zones
To make fast, reliable progress, separate life into two contexts with different goals.
Managed areas
What it means: spaces you control—home, garden/yard, balcony, potty patch
Goal: zero opportunities to practice; within 2–4 weeks, no poop‑eating here
How: tight supervision, instant pickup, Sit–Pick‑Up–Reward routine, smart barriers (baby gates with cat doors, secured litter boxes, accessible potty patches only during training). This means that in managed areas, you erase the habit’s reinforcement and install a paid routine.
Wild poop zones
What it means: places you don’t control—sidewalks, parks, trails, beaches, fields
Goal: early detection and cheerful move‑aways; humane backup tools as needed
How: watch sniffing intensity, use an upbeat “Come on!” and move away, choose cleaner routes, long line in hotspots, and consider a well‑fitted basket muzzle for chronic scavengers while training takes hold
In wild zones, you control distance and timing so moving with you beats investigating.
Step One: Set Up for Zero Rehearsals
The goal is simple: no chances to practice the behavior.
That means preventing access, replacing “find-and-eat” with calm, rewarded routines, and keeping cleanup quick and consistent.
Home and Yard Management
- Supervise every potty trip. Use a leash or long line in the yard if needed.
- Pick up instantly. Keep bags, a scoop, and a sealed bin by the door so it’s effortless.
- Create a designated potty zone. Make it boring and easy to monitor; sweep it daily.
- Use barriers wisely. Baby gates (with cat doors) or closed rooms can protect litter areas.
- Secure cat litter boxes. Even fancy robotic ones need a physical barrier.
- Indoor pads or potty patches: Only make them available during scheduled breaks; store them out of reach otherwise.
- Apartments or balconies: Leash your pup to the pad, reward after use, clean right away with biological detergent, then white vinegar.
- Multi-dog homes: Take one dog out at a time, and pick up after each before letting the next out.
- Night or low light: Use a headlamp and keep the long line attached if your yard is a hotspot.
What not to do:
- Don’t leave your puppy unsupervised in the yard.
- Don’t rely on deterrents or “poop-eating” supplements.
- And never scold your dog during or after potty time — it only teaches them to sneak off next time.
letting your pup go wander off is not wise whilst you’re trying to conquer coprophagia
Step Two: Teach the Sit–Pick-Up–Reward Routine
Your new motto: replace “sniff, grab, eat” with “sit, wait, reward.”
This becomes your default potty cleanup pattern – calm, predictable, and positive.
Here’s How It Works
- When your puppy finishes, guide them a few feet away on leash.
- Ask for a Sit. The moment they do, mark (“yes!”) and reward.
- Keeping them near you, quickly bag the poop. If needed, use your...