Eater’s Guide to Idaho’s Snake River Valley

[Amanda Gabriele]

Rows at Scoria Vineyard in Caldwell | Sydney Nederend

From Basque chorizo to huckleberry ice cream, wine trails to mountaintop picnics, here’s everything you need to know about wining and dining in Idaho’s Snake River Valley

Since it earned the nickname the Gem State, Idaho has been attracting fortune-seekers who see untapped value in the West. During the first six months of the COVID-19 pandemic, new residents flocked to the state, giving it the biggest pandemic population bump in the nation.

The capital, Boise, has led the boom (with a surge in housing prices to match), as remote workers migrated east from the Bay Area and the Pacific Northwest in search of more space, cheaper rent, and a quieter lifestyle. New residents brought infusions of cash and interest, but they’re building on the area’s endearing underlying character. Boise is funky, cool, and friendly, while the surrounding foothills and nearby Boise National Forest put the great outdoors at the city’s doorstep. Plus there’s a thriving food scene powered by a strong Basque community and chefs quickly gaining national recognition. And then there’s wine. Really great wine.

Idaho is considered a newbie on the U.S. wine scene. Some of the first grapes planted in the Pacific Northwest were grown in Lewiston in 1864 — about three decades before statehood — but it took until 2007 for the federal Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau to approve the Snake River Valley as the state’s first American Viticultural Area (AVA). Over a thousand miles long, the Snake River was formed more than 4 million years ago, overlaying the prehistoric Lake Idaho bed that creates the valley’s boundaries. The AVA centers on a stretch of southwestern Idaho with the largest density of vineyards and wineries, along with bits of eastern Oregon. At 8,000 square miles, it dwarfs Napa and Sonoma, which together have 34 AVAs packed into just 2,500 miles.

The designation, which put Snake River on par with more established wine regions, couldn’t have come soon enough. In recent years winemakers have transplanted from California to apply their experience in the up-and-coming region — but there are also a lot of Idaho natives among the vintner ranks, including some on land handed down for generations. Overall, the Idaho wine industry feels refreshingly direct and laid-back compared to the exceedingly polished scenes in California and Oregon.

The Snake River Valley winemaking community is young, but vintners make up for their lack of years with ambition and energy. You won’t find a lot of pretension or stuffiness. You will find a lot of downright delicious wine. Here’s your guide to everywhere you should drink, eat, and stay in the nation’s buzziest new wine region.

Cinder Wines
View of Sunnyslope

What to know before you go​

Basque Block: Boise is home to one of the largest communities of Basque Americans, including some who trace their roots back to a wave of Basque immigrants in the 19th century. Get your fill of chorizo, pintxos, and paella in downtown’s Basque Block.

Boise: You’re probably saying “Boy-Z” when really it’s pronounced “Boy-See.”

Sunnyslope Wine Trail: Visitors looking for great wine should start with this collection of 17 wineries and vineyards. Located about 30 miles west of Boise, the trail works its way through Meridian, Nampa, and Caldwell.

Ste. Chapelle: The first Idaho winery to open after Prohibition, Ste. Chapelle was like the big bang for the region’s wine industry when it opened in 1975. The winery is still kicking too, earning awards and national attention.

Huckleberry: This small berry is Idaho’s state fruit, so you’ll see it on menus across the region. Similar to a blueberry, the huckleberry is more sweet than tart, especially when baked or cooked. Look out for huckleberry salad dressing, ice cream, cocktails, and even as a glaze for beef and other meats.

Potatoes: You probably associated Idaho with this tuber long before grapes, and for good reason. The state harvests 13 billion pounds every year, 90 percent of which are russet potatoes.

Fry Sauce: This simple mix of ketchup and mayo is excellent for dipping fried spuds. Its given name in Boise is slightly more dignified than Heinz’s “mayochup.”

Syrah, Viognier, Riesling: Grape growers plant lots of varieties, but syrah, viognier, and riesling excel in Idaho, which is on the same latitude as the Rhone Valley in France and Rioja in Spain. Plus, with California’s vines under the very real threat of frequent wildfires, Idaho is becoming a go-to for varietals like chardonnay and merlot.

Garden City: Located across the river from downtown Boise, Garden City has become an increasingly popular area for small wine producers to set up shop — including a few folks who make some of the best bottlings in the region. From downtown Boise you can jump in a car and be there in about 10 minutes.

The Greenbelt: This beloved urban trail celebrated its 50th birthday in 2019. The paved pathway snakes along the river and connects downtown Boise to Garden City, with plenty of wineries, restaurants, and green space along the route. Though it’s a tourist hot spot, you’ll also see plenty of locals fishing and zipping by on bikes and scooters.

Cinder Wines
Wine on tap at Cinder Wines

Cinder Wines
The tasting room at Cinder Wines

Where to drink​

The eponymous Snake River supplies the region with abundant water, while its ancient volcanic sediment makes fertile, well-draining soils that give grape growers greater control. Cold winters also allow vines to go dormant (naturally ridding plants of pests and disease), while the combination of a dry climate, hot days, and cold nights balances the fruit’s acids and sugars. All that adds up to beautiful, laser-focused wines worth a serious tour.

Sunnyslope: The gorgeous tasting room at Koenig Vineyards is a must-visit. Take a seat on the expansive patio or start up a game of life-size chess as you sip the dry rosé (a juicy blend of sangiovese and merlot grapes) or cabernet sauvignon (full of vanilla and cherry). Climb the tower out front to enjoy views of the vineyards when you’re done. Sawtooth Winery and Ste. Chapelle are next door to each other and feature the same winemaker, Meredith Smith. Both boast tasting rooms overlooking lovely vistas and serve wines that aren’t readily available elsewhere. Look for the Trout Series at Sawtooth, and Panoramic and Treasure Valley Series at Ste. Chapelle. Patio-hop your way to Hat Ranch for a lively afternoon scene. As you admire the rows of grapes behind the tasting room, you’ll notice hats of all different shapes and sizes adorning the fence posts — a quirky nod to the winery’s name. Winemaker Tim Harless also produces for the Vale Wine Company, which is available to try at the tasting room.

Garden City: Owners and winemakers Carrie and Earl Sullivan started Telaya Wine Co. as a way to work together (Earl was previously the COO of a pharmaceuticals company and Carrie a veterinarian). Now their tasting room is one of the most popular spots on the Greenbelt. On nice days, every table on the patio is occupied by wine drinkers (and their dogs) watching the action on the Greenbelt, maybe with a glass of 2020 Aman II “Clash,” a blend of Idaho-grown gruner Veltliner and viognier that has tangerine and tropical notes. On cooler afternoons, you can stay toasty by one of the firepits or by sipping the winery’s Turas bottling, which hits the sweet spot between earthy, fruity, and spicy. If you’re a fan of pet-nats, co-fermentation, and funky, experimental wine styles, check out Split Rail Winery. In the tasting room, you might find a Spaghetti Western playing on TV while the Cramps drift through the speakers. Winemaker Jed Glavin uses locally grown grapes and doesn’t often make the same wine twice, and he finishes in concrete eggs and sandstone vessels along with the usual oak barrels. Finally, Cinder Wines owner and winemaker Melanie Krause named her winery after the Snake River Valley’s volcanic soil. The vast tasting room has outdoor and indoor seating where groups gather for guided wine and chocolate pairings.

Buhl: On the eastern tip of the Snake...

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